Vintage Blue Ikat Ultimate Shift Dress

Hi Guys,

Today I am back with a little bit of me sewing, a simple Sew Over It London, Ultimate Shift Dress. I have been sewing a lot for others over the last few months, and not really had a lot of time to sew anything for myself. The last last dress I made, the Liberty Alpine dress, I made to go to a Craft Party in and I made to a deadline, so ultimately I was rushing up until the last moment to finish it in time. Cue hand sewing til midnight... totally worth it though :)

And the same goes for this dress really, just finished in time for a deadline.  Last week I was sewing some gifts up and it got to Thursday and I checked the weather report for my trip out on Saturday.

Now, if you haven't already realized I live in England...  and as most will well know, it is pretty much essential to check the weather report if you want to go anywhere. I was travelling to another part of the UK and I was informed we would have sunshine!  oh hello!Well, I was not prepared for that!

 So after checking my wardrobe and finding that I didn't have a single thing suitable I decided I would have to whip something up. Truth is I have just not had time to update my summer wardrobe, I have been so busy with other projects and because summer just doesn't seemed to have arrived here yet, there hasn't exactly been a rush on the sleeveless vests and sundresses! The summer wardrobe is now edging closer to the top of my list.

On a side note, I really need to stop this last minute sewing, I don't enjoy it very much, and I don't want to start putting pressure onto a skill that I really love... sewing. I need to plan more, and put time aside to sew the things I really need to fill those gaps in my wardrobe, not just last minute sew things when I have been too busy to plan ahead... not good.

Anyway... Me, a trip out, sunshine, nothing to wear. I decided I didn't have time to go too fancy, and if I wanted to make something I had just Friday to do it. So, I opted for the lovely Sew Over It London Ultimate Shift Dress pattern. I guess you could say this has become a bit of a well loved pattern for me. I think I have made four altogether and I find it a really quick garment to put together with really pleasing results.

Next up was choosing the fabric, I had a quick look in my fabric stash and pulled out some rather lovely Vintage Ikat blue cotton. This fabric was a rather lucky find from a local Vintage Fair. They don't usually do textiles there but there was a lady selling home furnishing fabrics and she had two pieces of this wonderful stuff! I think in total it cost me £6 for the lot, and I only used one of the pieces, so I am now wondering what to make with the second piece?! Suggestions would be very welcome!!

So am I going to stop chatting about the weather like a typical Brit and show you the dress...

The print had a bit of a crazy pattern to it and if  wanted to follow grain and keep those diamonds running parallel down my body it meant that the diamonds seemed to go on a bit of a wander across by body. I think that is just the pattern though and it was the best possible placement without loosing those strain grain parallel diamonds. Hey, I am happy and sometimes with vintage fabrics you just have to go with it, I have had countless pieces that the prints are all kinds of crazy off grain, but I think I just about get away with this one... 

I was a little worried about this colour on me. I loved the colour, but I was worried it would make me look larger, but I think keeping the silhouette clean with a simple shift dress has help to minimize that.

This is the first Ultimate Shift Dress i have made with short sleeves and I really love them! I was a little skeptical at first as I usually go for a three quarter length as I find that a flattering for me, but this could be my new summer sleeve length!!!

And if any of you are wondering if  got my dose of sunshine.... I totally did not...it rained and poured all day, so much so I put on my tights and brogues instead of my sandals. You win some you lose some.

 Here I am on my way down to see my friend, we were stuck in traffic, in the rain, but I was just too excited to be seeing my friend and wearing my new dress. (I wasn't the driver by the way) ;)

That's all for now, I am back to sewing for others for the moment, and I am eagerly awaiting the next gap so I can get sewing my summer wardrobe!!

Do you have any favourite patterns that you return to when you are in need of a quick make?

I am always interested to hear!

I am also open to suggestion to what I can use my left over Ikat fabric for? I have just over a meter left and feel a bit clueless about what to use it for. If you have any suggestions please drop me a message in the comments below. :)

Thanks for stopping by...

~HJF~

Thirty gifts for Thirty - Algebra Bow tie and pocket square

Hi  there guys!

Today I am back sharing one of my favourite makes from the Thirty gifts for Thirty series. I have been having a lot of fun making menswear recently, but one of the items I have found I love making are bow ties! I started making them last year when Mr. F requested one for our wedding, then I cranked things up a notch when I made him eleven for Christmas last year. I had a blast making them, choosing different fabrics, some from my stash, and treating him to some new ones in some snazzy prints!

So naturally when I came to making the birthday gift list I had to include the odd bow tie in there somewhere! The hardest part was choosing the fabrics, there are so many amazing fabrics out there, I was really spoiled for choice. I decided to go for a bit of a Maths theme... it seemed fitting after all.

I have drafted this pattern from scratch and have made a few mods to get it to this point, but I think I can finally say I am happy with the proportions and the finishes.

Here we have it gift number four.... the Algebra Bow Tie and Pocket Square.

I love this fabric so much it is Moda Elementary Equations, and it is so lovely to work with. I bought it from The Village Haberdashery and my pattern for both the pocket square and the bow tie fits perfectly onto one fat quarter. Talk about stash busting!! 

I had a lot of fun with the packaging on these guys too....first up is the pocket square!

I like the wrap around packaging you get on fancy items sometimes and tried to mirror that style...

Next up is the bow tie packaging, I am kind of proud of this one...

These dapper treats went down a treat with Mr. F and I  am pretty happy with the packaging prototypes too. 

Thanks for visiting my blog, It means a lot that you folks stop by to visit :)

That's all for now, I will be back with more birthday related treats soon.

~HJF~

Thirty gifts for Thirty - Mens Keyboard wallet

Hi all,

Today's post is yet another instalment of Thirty gifts for Thirty, where I challenged myself to make twenty handmade gifts for my husband for his thirtieth birthday! 

Today I wanted to show you the handmade wallet I made for him. I wanted to make him a simple fold over wallet but with a bit of personality, so I set about drafting a quick pattern. 

I wanted a simple design with a fold down the centre, a place to hold notes and cards, and that's it. 

I came up with the pattern fairly quickly and set about sewing. I decided I would take step by step photographs of each stage so that I could make a tutorial with the hope of giving my pattern away as a free download. It was the first time I have made an accessory pattern with the intent to make public, it is usually garments patterns I draft for myself, so I tried to be organised about it and made sure I documented each step.

 It all went together fairly quickly, I made a couple of silly mistakes near the end, but I think that was just due to tiredness. I ended up remaking the whole wallet because I had handled it so much by this point it looked a mess! But I got it together and finished it off in time for his birthday.

 I can't say I am overly happy with the finished product, it just doesn't look professional enough for me. So after taking all of the photographs and drafting the pattern, I decided not to post my tutorial after all. I think I am better sticking to the garment making and this has definitely taught me that small accessories are not my thing! But I am ok with that, you know, I am a garment girl at heart, and that's ok. I have loved sewing clothes for as long as I can remember, so maybe this little accessory adventure didn't go quite to plan because my heart wasn't really in it (it was, I wanted to make Mr. F a rad wallet) but who knows, I am ok with not being a whiz at the old wallet making. Pass me the dress patterns any day....:)

So here we have it, gift number three...

As you can see in this photograph the corners are not square, this is due to the amount of bulk, even though I trimmed out all of the excess. I am not sure how I would eliminate this next time?

The two lovely fabric I used were from The Village Haberdashery.

Here is the finished gift with the label attached. Although I am not completely happy with the finished product, it still taught me a lot, and it taught me about what I enjoy sewing too. I really thought I would enjoy sewing this, but I really didn't. I guess there won't be too many more wallets in my future sewing plans. ;) 

Are there things you sew that you don't particularly enjoy sewing? 

Are there any things you sew that you know you find difficult?

 I would love to hear about them in the comments below! 

Thanks for stopping by. 

~HJF~ 

Thirty gifts for Thirty - 80's Striped beach shorts

Hi guys,

My next installment of Thirty gifts for Thirty is a super simple pair of 80's Striped beach shorts, made from a vintage pattern.

I have used this pattern several times to make shorts and pajama bottoms for Mr. F and they have turned out great. The pattern is so simple and quick to sew up that you can have a snazzy pair of shorts in around an hour...



Or you should be able to if you don't encounter any problems. I had a bit of a nightmare with these shorts, well, not the construction but the lead up to it. I bought some fabric from Abakhan from the quilting cotton section, because I wanted something lightweight but with some body to to it. I selection a nice green and white striped pattern that I thought would go well with pretty much everything.

 As most will know at Abakhan the vast majority of its fabrics are sold by the weight, and are displayed in wire baskets for you to rummage through to your hearts content. I love a trip to Abakhan, as I usually come back with something really quirky. but I have shall we say, had the odd mishap when buying fabrics from there. I found my fabric, checked the yardage and I had just enough to fit my shorts pattern on there nicely.

Now I bought this fabric weeks in advance of making these shorts and I didn't think to even look at it again once I got it home, foolish me. A few weeks later when I got the fabric out to cut out the shorts I noticed a stain, then another, then another... but these were not easily visible, and I had obviously missed them under the shop lighting, there were dye marks, streaked all through the fabric.

 Anyway, I didn't have time to return the fabric, or buy new, and I tried all my best stain remover techniques and nothing would shift the dye. I had to alter the shorts pattern to take some of the fullness out and do some serious pattern placement wizardry to get these bad boys to fit on to the dye free remaining fabric. I managed it with only a few specks on the waistband which when gathered, they are completely unnoticeable and one small patch on the leg. I had planned to add some embellishments to the shorts once they were finished anyway so I just covered the dye spot with a original 80's woven patch. My mum kindly donated it to me, it has been in her sewing box since she used to sew for me and my bro and was intended for a pair of my brothers shorts way back when.

So here we have them, gift number two of Thirty gifts for Thirty, nothing super spectacular, but a pretty functional pair of beach shorts....

These shorts are a basic design with just an elasticated waist, fake fly front and side seam pockets.

Here you can see the fabric a little clearer and of course that amazing woven patch! Secretly I am super jealous of the patch and wish there were two then I could have had one for a shirt or something, I think it is pretty rad!

I also did labels for the shorts as well, this time as a swing design.

Sadly no modeled shot as it has been way too cold here to even think about getting the shorts out! 

But Mr. F liked them, so I am hoping that they will be a success this summer.

Thanks for stopping by to see some of my menswear makes! I have really enjoyed sewing for someone other than myself, and I am hoping to sew some more menswear for my Dad soon. It is getting rather close to Fathers Day over here....

 Has anyone been making anything special for their dads?

Would love to hear if you have any special fathers day projects lined up?

~HJF~

Thirty gifts for Thirty

Hi Lovely people,

Today I am back with a bit of a different post, still my usual sewing, but this time it isn't for me!

So, early may Mr. F turned 30, and to mark this pretty special occasion I wanted to make him something really awesome!! The problem was I wasn't really sure what, I know that probably sounds awful, but I just couldn't settle on one gift idea. So, in the end I decided, why have one gift when you can have thirty.... I mean that is the rational jump to make isn't it?! Everyone else was with me on that one right?! hmm thought so.....

So I set to making a list of gifts I wanted to make for Mr. F ( if you haven't guessed already, that's my husband ha ha, thought we should just clear that one up) I decided to try and make a gift for each of his thirty years would be way too ambitious so I whittled it down to a mere 20... the rest were token gifts that I bought throughout the year leading up to his birthday.

I thought it would be fun to share with you some of the gifts that I made for Mr. F. It has been my first real adventure into menswear, so I hope you stick around for the next few posts :)

First up is the Star Wars skinny tie

I have made a few ties this year as it seems to be the year of our guys turning thirty and ties make a great gift! The original skinny tie pattern is from the See Kate Sew Blog , which is a great place to start. I have however made some mods to the pattern and use a more traditional method of assembly to create the point lining you see below.

If you are looking for a few tips on Tie making or, like me you work better with a few visual aids, I found this really helpful video that also has a downloadable pattern. They walk you through the whole tie making process and every step is made very clear.

Tie Making Tutorial Video on Youtube - Not my content!


I bought official Star Wars Quilting cotton a while ago and it was perfect for this project, I lined it with some scraps of quilting cotton in a neon green because it matched the lasers so well!!

The finishing touches I decided to create for my gifts were packaging labels for each gift, now at this point in the game I think I had lost the plot a bit.  I was making hand made gifts, then making labels to make each gift look shop bought..... but I am still glad I did it, it was a lot of fun and I think it finishes off each gift nicely. 

I really enjoyed making this tie, it was so quick to put together! The hand sewing really is the most time consuming part, but I did most of that watching Season 3 of the Killing (I know, I am late to the party on that one!). 

  

That's my first installment of Thirty gifts for Thirty, I hope you have enjoyed seeing something a little different on my blog.  I will get round to posting gift number two shortly.....

When I decided to make my twenty gifts, I set myself a schedule but as ever, things take a little bit longer than expected. I had NO idea this would turn into the crazy challenge it did! This was just gift one and was a breeze... :)

Do you make a lot of handmade gifts or do you mainly sew for yourselves? 

Have you ever set yourselves a crazy challenge or deadline for someones birthday? I would love to hear about it!

As ever thanks for stopping by!

~HJF~

Alpine Liberty Emery Dress

Hello guys,

Today I am back with another Emery Dress. I am rather a fan of the Emery Dress by Christine Haynes, and although this is only my third, I can see many more of these in my future. 

I made my first ever Emery during Selfish sewing week, it was made from some lovely vintage Peter Pan cotton that was donated to me by my Aunty and you can take a peek at it here. 

This is my third Emery and I have made some quite significant changes to the pattern to get the fit right for me. I would like to say I did an FBA straight away, like I should have, but I didn't, and in the end I have made multiple changes to the bodice pieces and I think I am now finally quite happy with the fit I have. 

This has been one seriously popular pattern, I mean googling it brings up a whole host of AMAZING variations of this dress. The thing I really like about this pattern is that is seems to be flattering for a lot of different body shapes, which is not something you can often say about a pattern. Yes, I had to make a lot of adjustments to get the fit right, but I do with most commercial patterns. 

For me this pattern is such a great staple, I feel I can make a really simple version like this one, to be worn casually, or choose a really special fabric and make it for a special occasion. 

For this version I decided to cut into my stash of Liberty Fabrics....

During the half-term holidays Mr.F decided he wanted to take me to Standfast and Barracks factory shop in Lancaster. This is the home of Liberty printing, where they print not just their cloth, but John Lewis', Christian Lacroix, Sanderson etc. There they sell misprints of these designer fabrics, some of it may be that there was just a flaw at the beginning or the end of the roll so they couldn't sell the whole roll, some there may be a slight shift in the print or a flaw that runs the entire length of the fabric. However the times I have been I have been very lucky in that most of the flaws are unnoticeable or are easy to work around in the cutting out stages. 

Now, I love Liberty fabric, in a sense that the quality of the fabric and the prints is incredible. I am not however super keen on florals. I like the odd floral piece here and there, but I tend to go for the more abstract ones. I do love the Liberty Art prints through and have had my eye on a few of the geometric designs for some time, I have some of the Queue for the Zoo in my stash which is also a particular favourite. So when we went to the factory shop I had a few prints in mind I was hoping they might have. I was a little disappointed in that most were florals that day but it is completely hit and miss depending on the printing process. 

I did however find a print that I have been eyeing up for some time....I believe it is called Jonathan B and I first saw it a year ago. I loved it because it reminds me of pencil shavings, which believe it or not used to be part of my job, sharpening pencils. Ha ha. I also love it because it reminds me of the alps, with mountains and fir trees. I was lucky enough to grab this for £3 a metre and it doesn't have a single flaw on it, lucky me. 

There was just two metres left which was enough for me to squeeze a long sleeved Emery out of it, with a few bits left over (maybe for a bow tie, who knows). 

And here we have it, I should probably mention at this point that I made this dress for kind of a special occasion. I was attending an Etsy Craft Party run by the store Berylune in Leamington Spa. I was also meeting up with an all round awesome gal and fellow sewer for the first time too, so you see, I needed me a new party frock! 

Here you have the extra secret Liberty pockets.....

You may notice in the photographs that I have my sleeves rolled up, well this was a style choice, initially I wanted to make the sleeves three quarter, but I am still having issues with my sleeve fit, they are too baggy, so I decided to make them a little longer and roll them up to give the dress a more casual look. 

I love this dress and I felt very comfortable in it all night. The bodice is fully lined and I decided to hand stitch down not only the lining waist but the lining armholes too, I am not a fan of having the overlocking on the shoulder seams visible on the inside, so I hide them all in the lining, nice!  This means that the only visible overlocking is on the skirt side seams and the sleeve side seams.

I can see lots of versions of this dress in my future wardrobe planning, I have a few I would like to make for our up and coming summer holiday. I am hoping to redraft the bodice to accommodate some shaping to the armholes to make a sleeveless version, wish me luck. 

Are there any other Liberty Fabric fans out there?

Do you have a favourite Liberty Fabric you are waiting to buy?

 I would love to hear what your favourite prints are!

Did anyone else attend an Etsy Craft Party? 

Thanks for stopping by guys!

~HJF~

Me Made May 2015 Round up!

Hi all,

Today I am back with a round up of all of my Me Made May outfits. I have to say I started this challenge thinking I would just enter the odd day here and there when I could but in the end, I wore me made clothing every day for the month of May. It was however a challenge and I will get to that later. First lets do a round up, the fun bit, with photographs, yay!

Ok outfit one was my Tartan Linden sweatshirt, which I really enjoyed wearing layer over a shirt, this worked for me.

Outfit two was one of my Dungaree dresses that I drafted from a RTW dress, this gets worn a lot, and I love it.

Outfit three is my Grainline studio alder shirt dress layered with a jumper, I think I prefer it like this as the neck is a little large so the jumper helps hide this a little ;)

Outfit number four were my Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers in a paisley pattern, super comfy like a stretch jean and also get a lot of wear because of that. 

Outfit number five is a chiffon tunic dress, self drafted, that has a silk yoke made from a scarf, I used to wear this for work a lot (with trousers, not leggings, fear not) but I think I have fallen out of love with it....

Outfit number six, I think is up there with my favourites, my self drafted polka dot vest and my By Hand London Victoria Blazer in a navy crepe?

Outfit seven is my Grainline studio Alder shirt dress shirt refashion which you can read more about here. 

Outfit eight is a self drafted boxy top made in some striped stretch satin viscose, this was made to wear to work but still gets a lot of wear now. 

Outfit nine is the same self drafted top as outfit eight but in grey chiffon and with a faux black collar and back neck keyhole detail, again this is old now and used to get a lot of wear to work. 

Outfit ten is my Tilly and the Buttons Francoise dress which you can see here.

Outfit eleven is another pair of Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers, this time in a stretch cotton featuring a tile print.

Outfit twelve is my Grainline studio Linden dress hack which can be seen here.

Outfit thirteen is my Parrott party frock or Emery dress if you like. I love this dress, it would have been better with ought the tights but it was way too cold!

Outfit fourteen is another self drafted boxy top in a really cool digital printed chiffon I picked up earlier this year and made during selfish sewing week, read more about that here.

Outfit fifteen is my Ikea fabric house print dress in a self drafted pattern. I loved this dress when I made it but looking at it now I am not so sure.

Outfit sixteen is my self drafted vest again, this has proven to be so useful to layer up between seasons.

Outfit seventeen is another dungaree dress in navy cotton twill, nautical is my favourite. 

Outfit eighteen is my third and last pair of Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers in a Tartan cotton. 

I skipped one day of Me Made May, well I didn't, I was still wearing my super comfortable snowflake Linden but I had come down with tonsillitis and wasn't feeling the selfies so I had a few days of accessories and stand ins to get me through.

Outfit nineteen is my latest and most favourite newly knitted bobble hat, I can't remember the yarn I used but it is wonderful.

Outfit twenty is my mustard scarf, which technically isn't me made at all, but Mum made. She made a piece of batik cloth for me with polka dots on it the hemmed it to make it into a scarf, it is the softest thing ever and rather dear to my heart. 

Outfit twenty one, Mr. F stood in for me and modelled one of the bow ties I made him for Christmas, it is a favourite of mine, I wish I had a matching party frock of the same fabric!

Outfit twenty two is my Carolyn Friedlander Nest Egg Tote which double as a handbag. 

Outfit twenty three is my Peter Pan vintage fabric emery which was also made earlier this year during selfish sewing week.

Outfit twenty four was my newly drafted t-shirt style top with cuffs, soon to be blogged. 

Outfit twenty five is my Sew Over It Ultimate Shift Dress in a cotton lounging leopards print. 

And that about sums it up, I have left out any repeats, as I am pretty sure seeing twenty five selfies of me is enough to last anyone a lifetime! 

I didn't think much of it when I signed up the this challenge, I just thought, hey, this will be fun, I might get to meet some new people and get some inspiration. It was so much more than that! 

When I have looked back though my photographs of the month I can honestly say there are very few outfits that I am really happy with. So I decided I needed to analyse this and do something about it. 

I took a look at the outfits I really liked and tried to narrow things down a bit. 

And as it turns out, this is it. Twelve out of twenty five and I am still not sure about a couple of these but I think that has more to do with fit than anything else. 

I looked at what I was left with and it still didn't fill me with joy, it wasn't a whole wardrobe of garments that I could piece together to make outfits. 

The other outfits that didn't make the cut were just, not me anymore, I think it is a combination of poor choice of colour and just out growing a style. 

So here are my findings from my Me Made May challenge.

I do not make enough me made comfortable clothes, I tend to make clothes for occasions, dresses mainly, this is ok, but I am at home a lot at the moment and party frocks just won't cut it! 

I do not have a colour palette so my me made clothes do no coordinate particularly well, this is fine for individual garments such as dresses, but for separates, it would be nice to be able to coordinate my pieces. 

I do not make many warm items of clothing, so, when the weather is bad I am often left wearing RTW items that I am not happy with.

So, I have decided I would like to do a bit of a wardrobe overhaul and reassess what is missing from my wardrobe. I can then draw up an action plan of how to fix it. 

In my next blog post I will go into more detail about my plan to make my me made wardrobe work for me! 

Lastly I would just like to say a huge thank you to everyone that took part this year. I have met some amazing, inspirational people through this challenge, people I would not normally have had a chance to chat to, everyone has been so welcoming and supportive. The sewing community really is a great thing to be a part of. 

If you have taken part in Me Made May this year and have found it helpful, I would love to know why? 

Has it helped you identify gaps in your wardrobe? 

Has it made you realise which are your favourite me made items of clothing and which go largely unworn?

Or have you just seen people's entries into the Me Made May challenge and are inspired to join in yourself next year?

Let me know in the comments below...

~HJF~